Restore woofers/midrange OA-116 R

För er som vill modda och renovera på egen hand.
For those of you who whish to mod and renovate by yourself.
jomicacruz
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Post by jomicacruz »

To all look at this shop
http://stores.ebay.com/GeoAli-Vintage-Stereo-and-More
Good prices to refoam Woofers/Mids. Hope this help someone
See you
jomicacruz
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Post by jomicacruz »

Found this in Ebay and bought the kit whith 4 6.5 inch rings
Check it on http://stores.ebay.co.uk/GeoAli-Vintage-Stereo-and-More
See you
Jorge
jomicacruz
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Post by jomicacruz »

Sorry didn t see the post before the one before this one.
ColesKing
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Rubber surrounds?

Post by ColesKing »

http://www.blocket.se/vi/11152172.htm?ca=11_s

These look pretty strong and sturdy to me - the first picture.
jomicacruz
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Post by jomicacruz »

Eh,eh,eh, nice pic.
My babes are waiting for the new rings after 32 years!!!!!!!!!! a little bit less strong as that one..........
All the best
Jorge
Attachments
picture010.jpg
ColesKing
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Sticking on the edges

Post by ColesKing »

Jorge,

If you stick the new edges directly onto the drivers as you have prepared them, unless you get it perfectly centred, you will find that the voice coil will scrape. The gap is very narrow there - you need to cut off the dust cap so that you can put shims into the gap and then glue the edge to the paper first and later to the metal frame. Later you glue back another dust cap - you lose the "Sonab" markings but have a perfectly aligned paper cone at least, with the good sound that comes with it.

You may already realise this, or maybe the instructions that come with your edges tell you this - Anyway, I thought I would just mention this here and save you some possible heartache later.

Good luck with the re-edgeing.

ColesKing
jomicacruz
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Post by jomicacruz »

Thank you for your good advice. Any chance to unglue the center cap whith some kind of solvent and glue it back again?
Over,
Jorge
ColesKing
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Unglueing dustcap

Post by ColesKing »

Jorge,

This glue sets to a quite tough polymer - it is the same as the one that bonds the edge to the frame. Think how much effort you needed to loosen the remainder of the old edgeing from the edge of the cone and also the metal frame - you sort of had to cut and scrape it off, not so?

It is the same with the dustcap.

The old dustcap needs to be cut off and then the remaining bits onto the cone are cut off/filed away using a very sharp knife to get it ready for the new cap.

Losing the "sonab" markings is not so bad - what is VITAL is to make sure that the voice coil is perfectly-aligned in the gap of the magnet. Otherwise it will scrape - you even then run the risk then of burning the voice coil if it scrapes badly enough.

ColesKing
Snoopy
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Post by Snoopy »

Jorge !!!!!!

DO NOT REMOVE THE DUSTCAP !!!!

There is a much simpler method.
Use the "1.5V battery method" to centre the voice-coil in the magnetic gap.

When you glue the new surround, connect a 1.5V battery across the speaker + and - poles. Depending on the polarity, the speaker cone either moves out (and stays there) or moves inward (and stays there).
When the battery is attached, the voice coil IS AUTOMATICALLY CENTRED in the magnetic gap.

Use the method as follows:
1. Glue the new surround to the cone and let it dry.
2. Connect the 1.5V battery to the speaker so that it LIFTS THE CONE.
3. Put cotton rolls or other soft material between the cone and the metal "legs" of the speaker in such a way that the cone stays "up".
4. Remove the 1.5V battery.
5. Put glue on the backside of the outer part of the surround and on the metal part where the surround shall attach.
6. Connect the 1.5V battery again with polarity to LIFT the cone.
7. Remove the cotton rolls or whatever you used to support the cone in step 3.
8. Remove ONE of the leads from the battery to the speaker and the cone "falls down" and the glue attaches partly. Immediately attach the lead from the battery to the speaker again so that the cone is lifted.
Repeat the procedure of connecting-disconnecting one of the battery leads a number of times.
9. Switch polarity of the battery leads and repeat the procedure of connect-disconnect a number of times to move the cone INWARDS.
10. Keep the battery connected to the speaker and finally fasten the outer part of the surround to the metal part of the speaker. Use your fingertips to press the outer part of the surround.
11. Repeat the process of connect-disconnecting the battery in both polarity modes a number of times.
12. Wait for the glue to dry.

Regards,
/Erland
För många Carlsson är inte nog...
OA4 typ I Teak
OA4 typ I Jakaranda
OA5 typ I Teak
OA6 typ I Vita
V1 Vita
OA4 typ II Svarta
OA5 typ II Vita
OA6 typ II Teak (5 st)
OD-11 Teak
OD-11 Jakaranda
OA-12 Valnöt(eller kanske Jakaranda?)
OA-12 Svartlack
OA-14 Teak
OA-14 Teak(eller kanske Valnöt?)
OA-14 Svart fanér (2 par)
OA-116 Svart lack
OA-116 Vit lack
OA-2212 Valnöt
OA-50.1 Vita
OA-51 Svarta
OD-11 "extended" Mahogny hemmabyggen (-76)
OA-14 Mahogny hemmabyggen (-76)
------------------------
Sonab 67 S
Sonab 85s
Sonab R-3000
Sonab R-4000.1
Sonab R-7000
Martin Dellstig
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Location: Kungsängen

Post by Martin Dellstig »

A word of caution:

The "battery-method" is known to usually work.
The result is however dependent on the spiders symmetry.

If you use this method be careful and check that the spider gives good linear movement.

If you remove the dust-cap and use shims you get a longer supporting surface that ensures a good result, this however takes more time and is more difficult.

Decide for yourself which method you go for.
For both methods inspect the spider first.

After installing the new edges inspect and test the woofers before installing them.

Best regards

Martin
Jag vet inte, vet du?
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